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The Jakarta Post, Wednesday, June 20,2001 GOT THE MUNCHIES ACEHNESE AT SEULAWAH RESTAURANT Jakarta (JP): OK, OK, enough of the little nudges and
knowing wink wich always seem to appear when people talk Acehnese cuisine.
Ganja leaves
are a tradisional flavour enhancer in the cooking, and
that is why it is said police will turn a blind eye if they find a
small stock of the green stuff in the Acehnesse kitchen. But
ganja or not is something Ibu Ratna Dwikora, the owner of Seulawah, an
Acehnesse Restourant at Jl KH Mas Mansyur 9C, at the back of
Sahid Jaya Hotel and few meters from the Karet Cemetery in Central
Jakarta, would rather not talk about. She
acknowledged that she brought the original curry powder from her homeland
and that, yes it probably had
a little of the hot stuff mixed into it. Subject closed. Now, lets try out
the food on the menu at this restourant named after a mountain in Aceh. Open
: 10
a.m. to 11 p.m. Peak hour are lunch time. What’s
It Got:
Acehnesse delicacies strongly influenced by Arabian and Indian
cuisines – many of the dishes are spiced with lots of pepper and
the special curry powder from Ratna’s home area of Pidie. Spicy
curries with coconut milk include gulai bebek (duck curry), gulai
kepala ikan kakap (fish head curry), gulai ikan hiu (shark
curry), , gulai telor ikan (fish egg curry), kari kambing (goat
curry), gulai ayam ( ckicken curry) and cow curry brain. Vegetarian
can try Ratna’s vegetables, which is alsso spiced with curry powder, kuah
pli’u(mixed vegetables in a yellow, rather watery curry)
and sayur dalica (mixed vegetables and fruit with an Indian
touch). If
you aare worried about clogged enteries, try out some coconut milk-free
dishes, primarily fish smothered in chili, such as asam ke’eung (
fish with green chilies in a yellowish, thin gravy with the distinctive
flavor of sour carambola), keumamah or ikan kayu ( spicy
shredded and dried tuna) and pepes ikan (steamed spicy fish wrapped
in banana leaves) There
is a variety of rice dishes,
such as nasi goring kambing ( fried rice with mutton), nasi
biryani ( a take on the Indian baked rice dish, with mutton and spices
such as pepper, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, coriander and curry powder, plus
coconut milk and raisins), served with pacri (a type of pineapple
chutney), and nasi guri ( rice with meat, anchovies and spiced
grated coconut). Also
on the menu is roti cane, a pan-fried
bread eaten with souce – another nod to Indian food There
is shrimp in chili souce – known by the acehnese as sambal ganja
– and traditional cakes like timphan (made of glutinous rice
frour, pumpkin , egg, sugar and cocnut milk, and flavored with screw pine
leaves), plus rujak Aceh (mango, cucumber, papaya, pineapple slices
in spicy dressing). Price
Point : Reasonable;
our lunch party of four spent only Rp. 84.000,- for main menu trough
dessert, On a different
Sunday lunch time visit, it was Rp 42.500,-
for two piece of duck curry (Rp 9.000 per piece), two small portion
of rice (Rp 2,000 per serving) and mutton curry (Rp 7,500) per portion Look
: Its
look no different from Padangs Restourant, with a plates of food stacked
at the glass front window.
It’s bright colored walls and white ceramic floor were clean and free of
flies. Acommodates about 40 dinners. There small parking Popular
with ..:
Many Indians and Arabs, according to Ratna, as well as office workers from
the Sudirman office and Cassablanca areas. Taste
Factor: Good in small portions of nasi briyani, keumamah, asam
ke’eung, and rujak Aceh, they were spicy but not going to
have you plead for another glass of water The
duck curry was rather disappointing as the meat was tough. The mutton and
fish egg curries were spiced like Padang food
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